We've orientated it so that the Pi power, AV and HDMI ports are facing upwards, to keep the sleek low profile look, and the GPIO is at the bottom so you can wrap a ribbon cable underneath for easy access to GPIO via Black HAT Hack3r. If you're using our stand, you'll have to rotate the screen. This is possible to do, but it can be tricky to turn them on at exactly the same time so the Pi and LCD can talk to each other and initialise properly. If you're using a plethora of power hungry USB devices and a power hungry HAT you might want to use two power supplies. We sell a microB USB splitter cable which will let you connect one power supply to both the display board and your Pi. This is a quick and easy way to get started, however you wont be able to connect HATs to your Pi! Use a Y splitter cable Using the red and black jump wires supplied in the screen kit, you can connect the 5V and GND pins from the driver board to the GPIO of your Pi. You have three choices when it comes to powering the screen Use the supplied jump wires The ribbon should then loop around and plug into the Pi, which is mounted on the back of the assembly. This cable looks just like a Pi camera cable, and fits into the connector on the edge of the board nearest the SD card slot.Īt the driver board end, the gold contacts on the ribbon cable should face upwards away from the LCD panel. On your A+, B+, Pi 2, or Pi 3 you will need to connect the main display ribbon cable between the display driver board and your Pi. Make sure you have a network connection and type this into Terminal: curl | bash

You'll need the latest software and the Raspbian OS in order to drive the screen. You should have a recent Raspbian or NOOBS SD card, or update your existing card to make sure everything goes smoothly. You should have a good power supply, the official Raspberry Pi 2A or 2.5A supplies are a sound choice. This guide assumes you have a A+, B+, Pi 2 or Pi 3. Getting Started with the Pi 7' Touchscreen LCD Pre-requisites

Fritzing debian raspberry pi 3